...ak je LED napajana zo zdroja ktory dava presne take iste napatie ako ma ta LED, tak ti cez nu potecie taky prud, kolko si sama vypyta, resp. tam potecie maly prud, ak ju vsak pripojis na vyssie napatie oproti jej nominalnemu napatiu, tak ti potecie tym vacsi prud, cim vacsie napatie na nu pripojis...
...inak neviem co sa cudujes? ...veD ich mas cez 100Ω odpor, takze ti urcite nezhoria pokial si im pomocou toho odporu nenastavil moc vysky prud a nejake divne napatie...
...na tom tvojom laboratórnom zdroji mas proste nastavitelnu prudovu poistku a keD bola nastavena na maly prud, tak tam zrejme moc velky netiekol a LEDky vydrzali, ale na PC zdroji ti tieto poistky zacnu pracovat az pri maximalnych odberoch, takze by som chcel vidiet LEDku, ktora by bez predradneho odporu zniesla dajme tomu 20-30-40A...
...a este nieco...zalezi ake maju LEDky napatie a nie od toho kolko ich akoze mas nejako pozapajanych...to je informacia na lebo si neuviedol prave tieto zakladne veci ako su: ako presne su zapojene, na ake napatie su pripojene a ake maju parametre...
First you need to know the LED voltage drop. It is safe enough to assume 1.7 volts for non-high-brightness red, 1.9 volts for high-brightness, high-efficiency and low-current red, and 2 volts for orange and yellow, and 2.1 volts for green. Assume 3.4 volts for bright white, bright non-yellowish green, and most blue types. Assume 4.6 volts for 430 nM bright blue types such as Everbright and Radio Shack. Design for 12 milliamps for the 3.4 volt types and 10 milliamps for the 430 NM blue.